1. What is MAXITILE Fiber-Cement Siding made of and is it new technology? MAXITILE Fiber-Cement Siding is approximately 90% sand and cement, 7% natural fibrous material, and 3%+/- inert fillers (such as diatomaceous earth). Fiber-Cement products have been manufactured worldwide since the early 1900’s. Asbestos-free fiber-cement technology was introduced to the US market in the 1980s.
2. Does it contain asbestos or chemical binders? No. Asbestos in fiber cement was replaced by natural and synthetic fibers now used in manufacture. Chemical binders are not added because product binding occurs in the layout matrix of the fibers. The products are naturally cured in an autoclave, giving great strength, durability and painting properties. The products are also free of fiberglass and formaldehyde.
3. How is it made?
To over-simplify the process: Raw materials are mixed together with water to create a slurry or wet mix. The slurry is picked up in several thin layers unto a collection roller until the desired thickness is achieved. The roller has a profiled sleeve that transfers the texture to the product. It is then cut with water jets to proper dimensions. After this it is pre-cured and then autoclaved, (which is a high pressure, high temperature steam oven), palletized, wrapped and shipped.
4. What siding sizes are available?
The siding is 5/16” thick. Lap siding is in 12’ lengths and 5 ¼”, 6 ¼”, 7 ¼”, 8 ¼”, 9 ¼” and 12” widths. Panel siding is available in 4’ widths and 8’, 9’ and 10’ lengths. Soffit material is ¼” thick and available in 2’x 8’ and 4’x 8’ as well as a variety of precut vented sizes.
5. What is the bending strength of fiber-cement?
Typical: ..............Longitudinal Avg.: 2500 p.s.i. ............ Transversal Avg.: 1850 p.s.i.
7. How should it be stored?
Fiber-Cement must be stacked flat, covered and kept as dry as possible prior to installation.
8. Does moisture negatively affect fiber-cement?
No. Approx. 8-13% is the equilibrium moisture content for fiber-cement. This moisture allows flexibility and resiliency for handling and framing movement. However, installing wet or saturated material may result in shrinkage at butt joints.
9. What happens when fiber-cement absorbs water? Only once and in a pre-painted state or loose state, fiber-cement can saturate and grow, when it dries it will return to it’s original dimension. When saturated it can lose strength and should be handled carefully, carried on edge, and stacked flat. After it dries it regains 100% of its original strength. The product should not be installed wet.
10. How does it perform in salt spray or high-wind applications?
Salt spray does not damage fiber cement. Fiber-cement siding has been tested to perform in hurricane force winds.
11. What about bugs and pests?
It is impervious to termites, carpenter ants and other pests.
12. Will it rot, warp, split, or twist?
No. Also, using the recommended accessories, such as off-stud jointers or leveling clips, will reduce the effects of stud movement at the joints, inconsistent fastening patterns and potential for broken corners.
13. What type of framing is required for fiber-cement siding?
Fiber-cement can be installed to wood or metal framing. Framing should be in accordance with local building codes. A vapor barrier is not required for fiber-cement but is recommended in wet regions to protect your framing and insulation. If required by code, a vapor barrier must be installed. Studs should be placed at 16 or 24” centers and a minimum 1 ½” stud face is recommended to provide sufficient area for fasteners.
14. Can it be used for shear panels?
Fiber-cement siding in panel form has been tested for shear values and are typically acceptable for this use. Those values can be found in the manufacturers’ literature.
15. Will I have to re-tool or change routines to use this product?
No. There will be a slight learning curve for handling and installation, but this will be minimal and simple for siding professionals. Additional tools and accessories can be added to make installation easier, but are not required.
16. How do I handle fiber-cement?
Fiber-cement planks should be carried on edge and if carrying several planks at a time, they should be on edge supported at both ends. Panels should be lifted at the sides and not by the corners.
17. How much heavier is this compared to other siding materials?
By square foot it is only slightly heavier than Masonite or wood products, however, because plank comes in 12’ lengths it will actually be lighter to handle. Panel siding will be heavier and should not be carried at the corners.
18. What is recommended for cutting fiber-cement?
There are many ways to cut this product. Here are some suggestions. 1. A hand held scoring tool or guillotine tool can be used for small cuts. 2. For internal openings: drill several holes around the diameter of the opening and tap out the center. 3. The Snapper Shear™ has been made specifically for cutting fiber-cement and comes in electric and pneumatic models. 4. Or a saw equipped with quality carbide or diamond cut blades can be used, proper ventilation and a dust mask is recommended to avoid breathing the dust.
19. How do I fasten fiber-cement siding?
Galvanized nails or screws can be used to fasten your siding. No stapling is allowed. Nailing guns can be used with a flush nail attachment for excellent results. Do not toenail. When installing panel, corners should not be fastened at all, due to framing member irregularities. Nails should be a minimum of 2” from all corners. Refer to the manufacturer directions for fastener sizes, patterns and types.
20. What is the recommended overlap?
1 ¼” minimum lap is required. Panels are butt jointed, and should have a min. of 1/16” gap.
21. What happens when the fastener breaks the surface?
Nothing, fiber-cement is the same product throughout the material. Cementitious patch can be used to repair broken corners or edges.
22. Can it be finished while it is wet?
To a point, it should be dry to the touch. Fiber-cement siding should dry sufficiently after 2+/- days of free air movement and dry conditions. An acrylic latex paint will allow any existing moisture to escape, while protecting the material from future absorption.
***Caution: most caulking will not adhere to wet material, please refer to your caulk instructions for this information.
23. What about gaps at the joints and trim?
When installing in dry environments, the gaps at joints and trim should be just wide enough for an aesthetic application of caulk. When installing in wet environments, the gaps at joints and trim should be wide enough to allow for caulk to function as a movement joint. (1/16” at joints and 1/8-1/4” at wood trim is recommended) Please use your knowledge of the region to be your guide for the necessary widths, and when in doubt, ask your material supplier.
24. What type of paint and caulk should be used?
High quality products will give you the best results, fiber-cement is extremely durable and will last a lifetime. Two coats of 100% latex acrylic paint are required to finish your project. The caulk type should be exterior or structural grade and approved for use with masonry, beyond this it is up to builder preference.
25. Are any accessories recommended for use with fiber-cement siding? Yes
- Off Stud Jointers: Save approximately 10% on waste, reduces cutting, decreases joint movement, provides a backstop for caulking, maintains lap, decreases labor by holding product in place for fastening, less garbage by using smaller cut-offs, decreases installation time, provides flashing behind joints.
- Leveling clips for installation to stud: Maintains even laps, decreases labor by holding product in place for fastening, inexpensive and reusable.
- Vinyl H-Molds: For plank and panel installation as seam covers, an alternative to caulking, and provides flashing behind the joints.
- Other metal and vinyl accessories are available such as: inside and outside corners, z-flashing, starter strips, soffit vents, adjustable reveals, and door and window trim. Fiber-cement trim pieces can also be ordered.
